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June 15, 1954 2,680,850

GEORGETTE RENARD, BORN DURAND GOWN Filed Sept. 25, 1959 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 a gywnw;

June 15, 1954 2,680,850

GEORGETTE RENARD, BORN DURAND GOWN Filed Sept. 25, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 zumr June 15, 1954 I 2,680,850 GEORGETTE RENARD, BORN DURAND GOWN Filed Sept. 25. 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 June 15, 1954 GEORGETTE RENARD, BORN DURAND GOWN Filed Sept. 25, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 a ar-@404 A 12 %Yuuw 7 Patented June 15, 1954 OFFICE.

GOWN

Georgette Renard, born Dim-and, Neuilly- -'sur-Seine, France ApplicationSeptemher25, 1950,,Serial No. 186,529.

Claims priority, application France.

August 12, 1950 6 Claims. 1

The making of a gown to measure, a inaccordancewith the conventional models designed by, a dressmaker requires numerous'operations per formed in the workroom as well as in the'fittingroom, and consequent results in a high manufacturing cost and in a rather long timefor completing the work.

Such gowns arenrade-by-assembling, in accordance with the model chosen by the customer, a certain number of pieces or panels of fabric cut out to measure; This requires aprevious cutting out and adjustment of panels or pieces oflinen of the pattern corresponding to the modeL'this adjustment comprising the following main operations: pinning together the pieces oflinen; sewing the threads indicating the-measurements; unpinning; laying flat the'linen panels over the fabric; pinning together the linen panels and the fabric; cutting out the fabric along the outline of the linen panels; marking, on the fabric, the sketching of the measurement threads; unpinning thelinen panels and the fabric panels fitting togetherthe fabric panels by'sewingor basting on awooden or cardboard dummy; and only then the-customerundergoesthe first trying-on. In order toef-fect readjustments-afterthis firsttryingmn it isnecessary to carry out further numerous operations These operations are liable to occur over and over again in the case of readjustments requiring two'or more trying-ens, and it may be understood that making a gown by conventional method takes a long time and results in considerable-labor andexpense.

In order to overcome these drawbacks-I have devised a new cutting tomeasure' technique andenables me to make very rapidly, gowns belong ing to a wide range of models," at arelativelylow cost.

This technique consists in:

(a) Making linen patterns in accordance with conventional sizes and with the various models; each pattern comprising, in a single piece, the frontand rear parts of the gown, and having-a conveniently cut out outline bearing 1 indentations which-demarcate on one side thereof, bodice fastening straps level with the waist, and on the other side thereof skirt portions,- some of these straps and skirt portions being designed to be brought either forwards or backwards, around the'body in order to form the gown;

(1)) Trying onthe customer the pattern thus cut out which corresponds best to her-nearest dummy size and adapting the pattern to her body by altering, through pinning, the-size'and posi-' tion of the straps and skirt portions and, if

necessary by pleatingat appropriate places, or

if the pattern is deprived of straps levelwith thewaist, by marking on this pattern with a ribbon.

the location of the waist and the waist-measure; (c) Laying flat the linen pattern on the pieces of fabric and cutting out said piece along the outline of the pattern, was to constitute a panel comprising, in a single unit, thefront and rear This technique produces seamless gowns made to measure-characterized by a single panel comprising the front and rear parts, the bodice and the skirt being fastened by means of buttons, press-buttons; zip fasteners or other device ex: eluding seams. Such a gown Whose model can vary indefinitely: constitutes a new industria product.

In "case thecustomers size does not fall withinone of the-conventional dummy sizes, it willbe suffi'cient for carrying out the process, to cut out a'pattern in accordance with measures taken" onthe customer.

It is to be noted that according to the process the invention and contrary to the technique at present used in high-class dressmaking;

(a) The customers measures need not be taken as a rule; she merely tries on the patternwhose dummy size is nearest to hers;

(b)"As the-'gownabears no seams, except for added sleeves in certain-models, a single tryingon of the pattern is enough, this trying-onbeing effected for instanceduring the first call of the customer at'the'dressmaking shop; the gown may therefore-be deli'vered'without her having to come back;

According toa=form of the invention, thepattern iscut out insuch away that the completed gown-has the shape 0f:a chasuble, the frontpanel' andthe rear panel being made of a single piece; and comprising at their sides, two

indentations .demarcating'bodice fastening straps and. twooskirtportions, said :strapsand skirtportions being provided-with buttons and buttons holes. By alternately bringing forwards and backwards the straps and the skirt portions, aroundl the:body ,-a seamless gown is constituted as described hereafter.-

By varying the number of button-fasteners,

the number, the disposition, and the shape of indentations and, as a consequence, those of the straps and of the skirt portions, by folding back certain skirt portions, by doing without certain straps or skirt portions, etc. an indefinite variety of seamless gown modelsmay be designed.

As regards the button-fasteners it is to be noted that, for a straight seamless gown whose pattern is of the chasuble type and comprises two button-fasteners one for the skirt and the other for the bodice, it is possible to have both button-fasteners in front, or both button-fasteners at the back, or one button-fastener in front and the other at the back, and vice versa, which clearly provides for four possible different forms. In each of them, both button-fasteners may be apparent, or one of them may be hidden, thusgiving rise eventually to twelve possible forms. In case the gown comprises three button-fasteners, it may be shown that the number of possible forms is sixteen.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent during the course of the following description. In the accompanying drawing forming a part of this application and in which like numerals are employed to designate like parts throughout the same.

Fig. 1 illustrates, in flat laid position, a pattern relative to a model of seamless gown,

Figs. 2 to 6 are diagrams illustrating the way in which the above gown is fitted on,

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 1 of a pattern relative to a further model of gown.

Fig. 8 shows the fitting-on of this latter pattern,

Fig. 9 illustrates the way in which this pattern is adjusted to the customers body, and

. Figs. 10 and 11 are relative to a seamless sleeve.

According to the first form of the invention (Figs. 1 to 6), a linen pattern a is designed as shown in Fig. 1. It is made of a single piece of linen whose length Z equals, or is slightly greater than, twice the height of the gown, thereby embodying both the front and rear panels of the gown; half-way along this pattern, an opening 1) provides for the neck-line. Taking as origin point he at the tip of the opening corresponding to the nape of the neck, the shoulder line Z-Z is determined; the pattern is to be folded along this line when fitted on.

Moreover the pattern is out out so as to form two indentations b1, b2, the portion of the outline between these indentations assumes the shape of a curved line h, at first concave (starting from either of the indentations) and then convex level with the opening. The shape of this outline is determined by the chest-measure 1, about 25 to 30 cms. from line Z-Z, and by the breadth 1 across the shoulders, about 10 cms. from be. These indentations demarcate two straps c1, 02, whose vertical distance from the shoulder line Z-Z is determined by the bust length 4, for the front as well as the back; if the bodice is to bear a ripple in the back, the dimension M will be greater than the dimension 4 according to the size of the ripple. The length of straps c1, c2, i. e. the distance between the axis XX and the end of the strap, is determined by the waist-measure 2. The indentations b1, be also demarcate portions d1, d2 of skirt panels D1, D2. The width of these panels is determined by the hip-measurer 3.

An allowance edge f is provided around the outline e which corresponds accurately to these measures.

A certain number of linen patterns are thus made to correspond to the various conventional dummy sizes.

When a customer chooses a gown whose model corresponds to the pattern of Fig. l, the pattern whose size is nearest to hers is selected from the premanufactured patterns. This pattern is fitted V on, line ZZ coinciding with the shoulder line.

The front panel D1 being previously raised the portion d2 of the rear panel D2 is brought forwards and pinned. The bodice strap 01 is brought backwards around the waist. If it is not accurately in position, its height is adjusted by acting on the edge 1; its length is also adjusted by appropriate pleats. This strap is pinned in its final position. The portion (21 of the front panel D1 is brought backwards, and its height and width are adjusted by pinning. The strap 02 is similarly brought forwards around the waist adjusted, and secured by means of pins. The pattern may be pleated along the waist, as shown in dotted lines in g.

In other words, the pattern is adjusted on the customers body by pinning appropriately and by effecting at the desired places, pleats in convenient number and size.

The adjustment of the sleeves is carried out in a similar way by altering, through pinning, the shape of the curved portion h of the pattern, so that the latter fits accurately on the customers shoulders and arms. Obviously all necessary indications may be marked on the pattern for the purpose of reconstituting accurately the gown in accordance therewith.

The pattern is then laid fiat upon the piece of fabric which is longitudinally folded, the line XX of the pattern coinciding with the median axis of the piece of fabric. The latter is cut out along the outline of the pattern, thus forming straps c1, c2 and skirt portions d1, (12 (this is the case, of course, of a gown symmetrical about its longitudinal axis). The gown is completed by arranging the buttons, the button-holes, the petershams, etc. It appears, in open position, as a chasuble which the customer slips on by passing her head through opening b, as illustrated in Fig. 2 which shows:

Both the front skirt portion d1 and the rear one d2,

Both the bodice straps c1 belonging to the front panel of the gown and those 02 belonging to the rear panel,

The four button-fasteners k1 for the rear skirt portion, In for the straps c1 of the front panel, its for the front skirt portion, and for for the straps c2 of the rear panel.

Figs. 2 to 6 illustrate in which manner this seamless gown is fitted on and fastened.

The chasuble being in position and stretched out, as shown in Fig. 2, the gown is fastened in four steps:

1st step (Fig. 3) Both portions d2 of the rear panel are brought forwards, around the waist, underneath the front panel D1 (button-fastener k1), in order to form the skirt. For clearness sake, the front panel D1 is assumed to be cut level with the chest along line A-A. 1

2d step (Fig. 4): Both bodice straps c1 of the front panel are brought backwards around the waist and buttoned up at the back (buttonfastener k2). For clearness sake, the rear panel is assumed to be transparent above line B-'B and its outline is shown in dotted lines; moreover the front panel D1 is seen stretched out, so that the inner side of portions d1 is apparent.

3d step (Fig. 5): The portions d1 of the front panel are brought backwards and buttoned up at the back (button-fastener its).

4th step (Fig. 6): The straps c2 of the back panel are brought forwards around the waist and are buttoned up (button-fastener k4) By resorting to the pattern shown in Fig. 1, it is possible to constitute numerous different models as follows:

According to a first form, both portions di of the front panel D1 are folded forwards instead of being buttoned up at the back, and they will be buttoned up at the central part of the front panel, as shown in dotted lines :2, in Fig. 2.

According to a further form, the front panel is done without from the waist down, the skirt portions of the rear panel being then brought forwards and buttoned up along the entire height.

According to a further form, the front panel isslashed from the neck-line down to the waist, thus allowing for wide facings; or it may be slashed from the waist down, thus giving rise to flaps; or still it is slashed from the neck-line down to the bottom.

Figs. 7, 8, 9 show another pattern of a model wherein the front and rear panels are made of a single seamless piece and to which sleeves can be added. This pattern has a height H corresponding to that of the gown. The front skirt portion d1 and the front and rear panels D1 and D2, are shown on this pattern.

The outline of this pattern comprises but one identation 123 along its height and one indentation hi on its upper edge, the latter being designed for the sleeve.

This pattern is fitted on as shown in Fig. 8, the vertical line yy (substantially bisecting indentation b4) being located in the middle of the hip, the parts n and 0 of the upper edge being pinned together above the customers shoulder.

The waist is then adjusted by pleats p whose position is determined by a ribbon q pinned around it. The length of this ribbon allows the transfer to the piece of fabric, after laying flat the pattern and cutting out the fabric, of the pleats p. The front skirt portions d1 protrude laterally with respect to the vertex '0 of indentation b3this vertex must lie on the vertical median axis of the gown-so that they overlap and are buttoned up r on top of one another.

In this model, the completion of the gown only requires a small seam along lines n and 0 over the shoulders; this seam may nevertheless be done without and a zip or other removable fastening means may be substituted therefor.

In this model, the added sleeve can be constituted as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, i. e. without seams. For this purpose, a substantially triangular panel s is used which is sewn to the shoulder of the gown and whose flaps s1, s: are designed to be rolled up in opposite directions (along the arrows of Fig. 10), around the customer's arm (in the same way as the straps c1, c2 of the model corresponding to Fig. 1, were rolled around the waist) and are buttoned up in t on top of one another. The sleeve thus formed can be moved up by pleating, on the customers forearm.

Obviously the invention is not to be restricted to gowns, but extends to any dress whose front and rear panels consist of a single piece of. fabric.

It is to be understood that the form of the invention herewith shown and described is to be taken as a preferred example of the same and that various changes to without departing from the spirit of the invention or the scope of the subjoined claims.

What I claim is:

1. A gown of the class described, formed of a single piece of material, the general outline of which when laid flat is rectangular, including an intermediate bodice section and two skirt sections on both sides of said bodice section, and having an approximately central aperture through which the wearers head is to be passed to permit said material to fall in front and at the rear of the wearer, the end sides of the piece of material constituting the bottom of the skirt sections, said piece of material being cut to form inwardly extending sides at a distance from said end sides corresponding to the waist of the wearer, and to provide two pairs of laterally protruding, opposite, cooperating straps extending within said rectangular general outline, respectively in the front part and in the rear part of the piece of material, at a distance from the central aperture corresponding to the bust-length of the wearer, the sides of said straps remote from the central aperture extending inwardly to meet the said inwardly extending sides of the skirt sections, and the other sides of adjacent straps being connected to each other along a generally concave-convex-concave curved. line, the opposite cooperating straps of each pair comprising, in the vicinity of the ends thereof, means for fastening same, whereby the cooperating straps in the front part of the piece of material are adapted to be fastened at the back of the wearer and the cooperating straps in the rear part of the piece of material are adapted to be fastened at the front of the wearer.

2. The gown according to claim 1, wherein the inwardly extending sides in the rear part of the piece of material extend further inwards than the inwardly extending sides in the front part of the piece of material.

3. The gown according to claim 1, wherein the said inwardly extending sides are substantially perpendicular to the lateral sides of the skirt sections.

4. The gown according to claim 1, wherein the meeting, inwardly extending sides form an acute angle.

5. The gown according to claim 1, wherein the distance between the fastening means of cooperating straps is equal to the waist-measure of the wearer.

6. The gown according to claim 1, wherein the cooperating straps in the front part of the piece of fabric. are nearer. the central aperture than the cooperating straps in the rear part of the piece of fabric.

References Cited in the file of this patent- UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 778,804 Skaren Dec. 27, 1904 1,351,537 Reynard i Aug. 31, 1920 1,364,232 Baxter Jan. 4, 1921 2,033,176 Bonanno Mar. 10, 1936 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 43,549 France Apr. 19,1934 1 

